Things are looking up for me in Afghanistan. I've been going out more, hanging around new people, and spending a little bit of money on myself. I'm going to start volunteering and work is going pretty well. October has turned out to be a great month for weather and the sun has been shining for days, with the exception of one gloomy day. Overall, not that bad of a time for a war torn country.
Looking back on the last few postings I've written, one may be tempted by the allusion that all is well here. That this is where the rainbow ends and where the pot of gold is waiting to be taken. The mountains are beautiful, the people amazing, and the food so far isn't dull. I have admittedly tried to portray my experience here in the land of the pomegranate, as one that is different from the war infested country that has come across the television screen for about ten years now. Now it's time to really set things straight and tell you how the other 'half', more like 75% + live. Nothing that I have to say is surprising, but I think it's important to contrast all the good with the reality, that just happens to be bad for many innocent people.
Kabul was founded along the river that once flowed through the central part of the city. Sadly, it's become the cities sewer, dump, and bathing pool. It is not uncommon to see people walking in the cesspool that it has become or to be seen washing there car with the fecal infested water in the sewer drains that align the road. The smell is something that should be a punishment for certain criminals.
Cutting across the Kabul river are several busy roads that act as the cities markets for many thousands of people. I go shopping on one such street every week and have my preferred venders that know me well enough. To get to these places, one must first battle the cities horrendous traffic and try to find a place among the street carts that frequent the sewer drains. After this, there are the numerous, and i'm talking numerous street children and mothers in burkas holding babies clinging to life to get through.
The UN estimates that there are over 60,000 street children here in Kabul. Many of them work the streets begging for money while carrying rusted out tin cans which burn some herb that they say casts the 'evil eye' away people. Such a boy can be seen in the movie, Buzkashi Boys, by director Sam French. I see such children everyday, day after day. They're not in school, they probably don't have a home, and for sure do not get to keep the money that they get. Then, there are the mothers with babies, or two to three children following them saying 'baksheesh' while grabbing your arm, poking you, or getting way too comfortable with your personal space. You can't blame them, I'd probably do the same thing. If by the time you've circumvented the real people of Afghanistan you still have cash by not giving it all away, you probably won't want to buy most of your food that you originally wanted. Now re-read the paragraph you just read, and imagine returning to the vehicle you just came int.
Kabul at night is a beautiful sight. The mountains are lighted with thousands of houses on the mountainsides. These are the people who are poor, but at least have a home up in the hills. They're living the good life, you see. The now have electricity, which until a couple of years ago, didn't exist for these people. So now they can look down at you from the hills while you look up in wonder asking yourself "who's up there?"
Remember that road I mentioned above with all the beggers? I forgot to mention the ones with no arms or legs. They're probably the victims of land mines or harsh punishments from the Taliban, or the mujahadeen. One such fellow, who has no legs, lies in the middle of the road holding his arms up asking for money when cars are stopped in traffic. Another person just stands in the on the side of the road with their hands out willingly taking whatever comes their way. There are countless dozens of people like this and it's all part of the reality that has and is shaping the Afghanistan of today.
I could go on, but I think I've made my point. Afghanistan is a great country, one of beauty and wonder. For every horrible thing that I just mentioned, I could easily name something good that is taking place. These are the birthing pangs of an ancient nation trying to find it's way in a modern world. The question is whether or not that world accept it's rising or tear it down again like it has during the last four decades.
Lastly, I've mentioned on Facebook that I will be volunteering at a local orphanage starting next week. I plan on teaching English and hopefully doing something else that is of help. I'm not sure how the whole thing will work out and am admittedly a bit nervous. However, I feel that this experience will be something to contribute in order to prevent these kids from experiencing more of what I just described above. If you'd like to help out in any way, financially, or by sending a package, please contact me at jgreenleaf@auaf.edu.af or visit www.afghanrelieffund.org. I'll be updating how this volunteer segment of my year in Afghanistan goes over the next five weeks.
- Jesse
Looking back on the last few postings I've written, one may be tempted by the allusion that all is well here. That this is where the rainbow ends and where the pot of gold is waiting to be taken. The mountains are beautiful, the people amazing, and the food so far isn't dull. I have admittedly tried to portray my experience here in the land of the pomegranate, as one that is different from the war infested country that has come across the television screen for about ten years now. Now it's time to really set things straight and tell you how the other 'half', more like 75% + live. Nothing that I have to say is surprising, but I think it's important to contrast all the good with the reality, that just happens to be bad for many innocent people.
Kabul was founded along the river that once flowed through the central part of the city. Sadly, it's become the cities sewer, dump, and bathing pool. It is not uncommon to see people walking in the cesspool that it has become or to be seen washing there car with the fecal infested water in the sewer drains that align the road. The smell is something that should be a punishment for certain criminals.
Cutting across the Kabul river are several busy roads that act as the cities markets for many thousands of people. I go shopping on one such street every week and have my preferred venders that know me well enough. To get to these places, one must first battle the cities horrendous traffic and try to find a place among the street carts that frequent the sewer drains. After this, there are the numerous, and i'm talking numerous street children and mothers in burkas holding babies clinging to life to get through.
The UN estimates that there are over 60,000 street children here in Kabul. Many of them work the streets begging for money while carrying rusted out tin cans which burn some herb that they say casts the 'evil eye' away people. Such a boy can be seen in the movie, Buzkashi Boys, by director Sam French. I see such children everyday, day after day. They're not in school, they probably don't have a home, and for sure do not get to keep the money that they get. Then, there are the mothers with babies, or two to three children following them saying 'baksheesh' while grabbing your arm, poking you, or getting way too comfortable with your personal space. You can't blame them, I'd probably do the same thing. If by the time you've circumvented the real people of Afghanistan you still have cash by not giving it all away, you probably won't want to buy most of your food that you originally wanted. Now re-read the paragraph you just read, and imagine returning to the vehicle you just came int.
Kabul at night is a beautiful sight. The mountains are lighted with thousands of houses on the mountainsides. These are the people who are poor, but at least have a home up in the hills. They're living the good life, you see. The now have electricity, which until a couple of years ago, didn't exist for these people. So now they can look down at you from the hills while you look up in wonder asking yourself "who's up there?"
Remember that road I mentioned above with all the beggers? I forgot to mention the ones with no arms or legs. They're probably the victims of land mines or harsh punishments from the Taliban, or the mujahadeen. One such fellow, who has no legs, lies in the middle of the road holding his arms up asking for money when cars are stopped in traffic. Another person just stands in the on the side of the road with their hands out willingly taking whatever comes their way. There are countless dozens of people like this and it's all part of the reality that has and is shaping the Afghanistan of today.
I could go on, but I think I've made my point. Afghanistan is a great country, one of beauty and wonder. For every horrible thing that I just mentioned, I could easily name something good that is taking place. These are the birthing pangs of an ancient nation trying to find it's way in a modern world. The question is whether or not that world accept it's rising or tear it down again like it has during the last four decades.
Lastly, I've mentioned on Facebook that I will be volunteering at a local orphanage starting next week. I plan on teaching English and hopefully doing something else that is of help. I'm not sure how the whole thing will work out and am admittedly a bit nervous. However, I feel that this experience will be something to contribute in order to prevent these kids from experiencing more of what I just described above. If you'd like to help out in any way, financially, or by sending a package, please contact me at jgreenleaf@auaf.edu.af or visit www.afghanrelieffund.org. I'll be updating how this volunteer segment of my year in Afghanistan goes over the next five weeks.
- Jesse
