The Silk Road, a name that conjures up ancient caravans of camels and traders traveling mind boggling distances for hundreds of years across Europe, the Middle East, and Asia. A time, when not only goods were traded, but also ideas about religion, culture, and education. A time, when tales from the Orient came from men who traveled far and wide to see for themselves the mysteries that the great East had to offer. Fast forward a few hundred years and we have photography, the Internet, and television to take us wherever we want to go. Far less imagination and wonder on our part is required these days to become excited about distant lands, and sadly, often times we are bemused by what we see as it is nothing we haven't 'seen' before.
After traveling six days in the remote nation of Turkmenistan, I found myself at the heart of this ancient trade route. It all began at a dusty old border crossing in the middle of the Karakum desert. Upon arrival at the border, a hideously disorganized group of people were waiting to get through immigration, who had conveniently just gone for an hour lunch. Great. Stuck in 100+ degree heat, little water, and a crowd of people looking at the only two foreigners within a hundred miles of anywhere. Yes, this was the scene at the moment.
Put a smile on your face however, and things do change. Somehow I started a half-arsed conversation/game of charades with two ladies who were next to me. One was clearly older than the other, I'd guess mid 30's, while the younger one was perhaps my age or thereabouts. After a couple of minutes, it became abundantly clear that the older sister was suggesting that I marry her younger sister. Amused, I played along for a bit and made a couple compliments as to this women's beauty - she was nice looking after all.
Immigration finally returns from a long and lazy lunch, and we, my friend Erin and I, made our way through the checkpoint and found ourselves waiting to be put into a van to go to the Uzbek side of the border. This side was much faster and convenient. It's also the only border that I've ever gone through that made me see a doctor to take my temperature, something that apparently is the norm.
With my new found health now confirmed, Erin and I charted a taxi cab to take us the 100+ kilometers to the ancient city of Bukhara! Yes, Bukhara!!!! You're not saying it loud enough people!!!! This was one of the great epicenters of the Silk Road, a city that was up and running before Christ was born. An oasis of trade and education that was world renowned.
Famous for it's covered XV and XVI century markets, madrassahs, and the famous Kolon minaret (which was the only part of the city not pillaged my Genghis Khan due to its magnificence), I now found myself at the heart of ancient history, which was easily conjured up since the town was well preserved with dusty roads, covered markets, and tiled madrassahs.
Yes, tiles! Blue tiled buildings that were and are the main trademark of Timur, the leader of an ancient empire in these parts that made the desert sparkle like crystal and brought up a civilization that would stand for hundreds of years. The main artery of this empire was situated in the city of Samarkand, another jewel that will be told about in a separate post.
Aw, I had arrived. History at my footsteps and centuries old markets to browse through. I was elated to be in this part of the world, for however brief a time. After settling into a nice B&B, I set out to explore this ancient wonder of the world that is often overlooked by travelers to Asia.
I began the next day by seeking out the Kolon minaret, an ancient tower that even Genghis Khan did not destroy due to its beauty. It's quite unique in that is has over a dozen different designs carved into it, all intricately done and preserved over the years. Next to it, is a huge open-courtyard mosque with a tree in the center. The mosque is decorated with Timur blue tiles that sparkle in the sun and that cause a nice shine to cover the building. Across from the minaret, lies the cities oldest madrassah with blue-tiles and a very unique entryway that is carved and decorated with a sort of Arab design, including the archways.
After a nice introduction to the city, I felt my way around the covered markets. And what did I hit up first, you might ask? The carpet shop, of course! Within seconds I was swept into a dome covered room that contained loads of carpets, both new and old. I looked around, saw some nice silk rugs for $850 and bid adieu to the beautiful sister of the lady who dragged me in, but spoke little English. Of course, she took me to her shop next where she unsuccessfully tried to sell me some hand embroidered pillow cases.
I also came across a very small spice shop where the man carved out gourds to be used as spice containers. Intrigued, I looked at the spices and decided on a spice that I no longer remember, but had it filled into a gourd thinking it would be a unique souvenir. The gourds had a nice leather strap that plugged the top so that you could carry it and not have your spices all over the ground. I took a rather good photo of this nice place and it is currently the cover photo of my Facebook page. Take a peak.
Oh! I almost forgot to mention the Ark! This was the first place that I visited. It's an ancient fortress that was the seat of power for the local 'king' or 'sultan' back in the day. It's a huge, rundown complex that is being restored and contains many great examples of Islamic architecture and battle-defenses from back in the day. Definitely worth checking out if you pass by Bukhara!
The rest of Bukhara can be described as bliss. Teashops, old streets, intricately designed mosques, blue-tiled domes and madrassahs, nice people, and a very cheap place to travel. Bukhara is a place that I will always remember, and if I'm lucky, will bestow another, perhaps longer visit in the future.
Off to Samarkand....
After traveling six days in the remote nation of Turkmenistan, I found myself at the heart of this ancient trade route. It all began at a dusty old border crossing in the middle of the Karakum desert. Upon arrival at the border, a hideously disorganized group of people were waiting to get through immigration, who had conveniently just gone for an hour lunch. Great. Stuck in 100+ degree heat, little water, and a crowd of people looking at the only two foreigners within a hundred miles of anywhere. Yes, this was the scene at the moment.
Put a smile on your face however, and things do change. Somehow I started a half-arsed conversation/game of charades with two ladies who were next to me. One was clearly older than the other, I'd guess mid 30's, while the younger one was perhaps my age or thereabouts. After a couple of minutes, it became abundantly clear that the older sister was suggesting that I marry her younger sister. Amused, I played along for a bit and made a couple compliments as to this women's beauty - she was nice looking after all.
Immigration finally returns from a long and lazy lunch, and we, my friend Erin and I, made our way through the checkpoint and found ourselves waiting to be put into a van to go to the Uzbek side of the border. This side was much faster and convenient. It's also the only border that I've ever gone through that made me see a doctor to take my temperature, something that apparently is the norm.
With my new found health now confirmed, Erin and I charted a taxi cab to take us the 100+ kilometers to the ancient city of Bukhara! Yes, Bukhara!!!! You're not saying it loud enough people!!!! This was one of the great epicenters of the Silk Road, a city that was up and running before Christ was born. An oasis of trade and education that was world renowned.
Famous for it's covered XV and XVI century markets, madrassahs, and the famous Kolon minaret (which was the only part of the city not pillaged my Genghis Khan due to its magnificence), I now found myself at the heart of ancient history, which was easily conjured up since the town was well preserved with dusty roads, covered markets, and tiled madrassahs.
Yes, tiles! Blue tiled buildings that were and are the main trademark of Timur, the leader of an ancient empire in these parts that made the desert sparkle like crystal and brought up a civilization that would stand for hundreds of years. The main artery of this empire was situated in the city of Samarkand, another jewel that will be told about in a separate post.
Aw, I had arrived. History at my footsteps and centuries old markets to browse through. I was elated to be in this part of the world, for however brief a time. After settling into a nice B&B, I set out to explore this ancient wonder of the world that is often overlooked by travelers to Asia.
I began the next day by seeking out the Kolon minaret, an ancient tower that even Genghis Khan did not destroy due to its beauty. It's quite unique in that is has over a dozen different designs carved into it, all intricately done and preserved over the years. Next to it, is a huge open-courtyard mosque with a tree in the center. The mosque is decorated with Timur blue tiles that sparkle in the sun and that cause a nice shine to cover the building. Across from the minaret, lies the cities oldest madrassah with blue-tiles and a very unique entryway that is carved and decorated with a sort of Arab design, including the archways.
After a nice introduction to the city, I felt my way around the covered markets. And what did I hit up first, you might ask? The carpet shop, of course! Within seconds I was swept into a dome covered room that contained loads of carpets, both new and old. I looked around, saw some nice silk rugs for $850 and bid adieu to the beautiful sister of the lady who dragged me in, but spoke little English. Of course, she took me to her shop next where she unsuccessfully tried to sell me some hand embroidered pillow cases.
I also came across a very small spice shop where the man carved out gourds to be used as spice containers. Intrigued, I looked at the spices and decided on a spice that I no longer remember, but had it filled into a gourd thinking it would be a unique souvenir. The gourds had a nice leather strap that plugged the top so that you could carry it and not have your spices all over the ground. I took a rather good photo of this nice place and it is currently the cover photo of my Facebook page. Take a peak.
Oh! I almost forgot to mention the Ark! This was the first place that I visited. It's an ancient fortress that was the seat of power for the local 'king' or 'sultan' back in the day. It's a huge, rundown complex that is being restored and contains many great examples of Islamic architecture and battle-defenses from back in the day. Definitely worth checking out if you pass by Bukhara!
The rest of Bukhara can be described as bliss. Teashops, old streets, intricately designed mosques, blue-tiled domes and madrassahs, nice people, and a very cheap place to travel. Bukhara is a place that I will always remember, and if I'm lucky, will bestow another, perhaps longer visit in the future.
Off to Samarkand....
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