Camel Market

Camel Market

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Update 7: Off to Bahrain, again.

 ~Salam!

 It's been a while so here's what I'm up to. I'm off to Bahrain for another weekend of fun fun fun! Going to explore the souq (market), maybe Adliya (neighborhood where I stayed last time), and hit a couple ok... a few bars to see what the local pubs have to offer. Maybe I'll return to JJ's for Happy Hour. Nothing fancy, but it'll be a great weekend to unwind from whining students and reckless classrooms since midterms have finished and now that the light at the end of the tunnel can be seen by all. 

 33 days until Thailand!!! That is the countdown playing in my head like a broken record. I still have no plans on what I will be doing. I kind of like it that way. Maybe I'll just go with the flow and see where my two feet take me, be it sun dropped tropical beaches or misty mountains. 

 Work is kind of hectic with students becoming restless and people in general are just ready for another vacation. It's hard to explain, but that first vacation really spoiled a lot of us, not me, of course. Seventeen days of mystery await in Southeast Asia and the anticipation until then is eating away at me. Sometimes I find myself pondering what it'll be like in the middle of class or test day when students are quiet, for a change, and I have time to gaze into my mind. 

 Anyways, time for bed.

 Life continues in the Kingdom. 

Monday, November 21, 2011

Update 6: General stuff :-)

  Good morning from lovely Al-Ahsa, Saudi Arabia!

 The sun is now shining after a brief episode of rain. I saw and felt rain drops this morning. It was a good feeling. This week has been a pretty good one, I'm busy working overtime at the Shabaka Training school twice per week, my classes have been unusually smooth, and this weekend should be a nice, relaxing time. On a different note, I'm taking a self-imposed break from the coffee bandwagon and am boarding the lovely boat of Green Tea for a couple of weeks, just to change things up. So far I'm liking it.

 In two weeks I will be going to the Kingdom of Bahrain, again. I'm going to try and find a host through Couchsurfing so I don't pay for a hotel and can actually meet some cool people again. My former hosts have sadly left for better things in India and back home in the states. However, I am looking forward to a weekend of sight seeing, good Thai food, and a couple of over priced Heinekens.

 The week after that, I may be going to Khobar and Dammam for the day to do some sight seeing in those cities. There's a compound trip there and I'm always up for getting away from the paradise that is Al-Ahsa, lol. It should be good times and seeing the Arabian Gulf again is good change of scenery. Khobar also has a nice Jarir bookstore which is the premier English book dealer in Saudi. I can easily spend an hour in there just browsing around their Lonely Planet travel guides.

 Only 48 days until I leave for Thailand and Cambodia. I'm getting excited, but it still feels a ways away. This weekend I am going to look for the LP travel guides for those two countries and do up my research for my vacation. I can't wait to go and I hope to avoid some of the more tourist locations for the first half of my trip. Angor Wat, of course, will be quite touristy as it's THE thing to see in Cambodia. I'm hoping to make it to Northern Thailand. We'll see what I can muster up. Whatever I decide, my itinerary, if you can call it that, will be quite loose and I will have no time table. I like travelling on the go and staying for whatever time I want. It's  the beauty of travel.

 Alright, it's almost time for class and I have to go.

 Life continues in the Kingdom.

 - Jesse

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Update 5: Back to Work and January's Vacation!

   Well, it's day two of 'back to work week' and things are slowly getting readjusted in my head. Eleven days of being lazy in KSA and Bahrain really was nice and totally broke my work circadian rhythm.

   Yesterday's classes were hectic. Most of the students were rowdy and tired... complaining that they didn't want to do the work and the usual gripe and diatribe that they usually muster up as 'Friday' gets closer. During my last hour of teaching yesterday, Rob, third in command here at Shabaka, interrupted my class and asked if I would be interested in doing overtime twice per week teaching at the Shabaka private school that is here in town. Being it was the first day back to work, tired, and maybe a little irritated from a day's worth of whining students, I excitedly said yes! lol... So now, every Saturday and Monday between 4-6 PM I will be teaching a very basic conversation ESL course. And at 100 riyals per hour (about 27 dollars) it all helps towards paying off loans and/or (emphasize on 'or') have a better vacation in January!

 Ahhh vacation, a word long since forgotten in most corners of America. I'm luck to have roughly five weeks paid vacation per year, without having to do the twenty years of work to get it. So, after a long chat with a friend who I met in Korea last night, I decided to book it for Thailand and Cambodia, two distant kingdoms in Southeast Asia that I have been longing to go to for a long time. My friend, Kyle, will meet up with me during the last week of my vacation after he finishes a work camp in SoKo. I have no itinerary yet and probably won't make one, but I will certainly be visiting Angor Wat, Pnomh Penh, Bangkok, and it's guaranteed I will be among the crowds of foreigners on the beaches of Phuket and Ko Samui. Stoked about this whole thing, even if it's two months away.

 Until that time, life continues in the kingdom, where it has gotten considerably cool and windy.

 - Jesse

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Kingdom of Bahrain, Trip 1

  Last week, I climbed onto the compound bus with excitement to leave for the Kingdom of Bahrain, a small tiny island nation just off the coast of Saudi Arabia in the middle of the Arabian Gulf. This two day break from THE kingdom was organized by Don our transportation manager.

 Unaware that this country even existed a few months ago, I first heard of this place from my friend Patrick Crossman who worked here in KSA last year and who helped get me this job. With limited knowledge and more excitement than ever to travel outside of Ah-Ahsa, where I currently reside, I got aboard the bus and started reading my Lonely Planet travel guide for the hundredth time to review all of the places that I wanted to see: Manama souq, central Manama, etc..


 Bahrain, as it turns out, has a history going back more than five thousand years, being a former Empire, British protectorate, and critical trading post for the Portuguese. The island has a fascinating history and is littered with old forts, ruins of ancient civilizations, and great Arab architecture ranging from decorative mosques to Manama's modern day buildings.

                                                     Mosque in Manama souq area
                                                     Bahrain World Trade Center, side view
                                                     Some random skyscraper

  Bahrain also happens to be a popular tourist destination for expats in KSA and Saudis alike. It is considerably more liberal than KSA as it allows women to drive and vote. Furthermore, freedom of religion is a right and all nationalities were declared 'equal' by the king in the early 90's. All of these things have helped create a modern Bahrain that is not only more tolerant of diversity, but also makes it much more multicultural and interesting than anything that I have experienced in Saudi to date.

                                                     Bahraini flag in all its glory

 Being in Bahrain certainly has its appeal for me as a Westerner, the multicultural ambiance in the air is great as you walk by a Thai restaurant while there's an Indian barber next door who happens to be cutting the hair of somebody from Europe. However, as of recent, Bahrain has experienced it's own calamity with what has come to be known as the 'Arab Spring'.

 A few months ago massive violent protests took place in central Manama, the capital governorate, and the Saudi military was called in to intervene. The results were bad and to this day mild, small protests continue with tear gas and other maneuvers being deployed to suppress them. You see, Bahrain is seventy percent Shia muslim while the other thirty percent, including the ruling royal family, is Sunni. I'm not going to describe the differences between the two as I have no interest in writing an encyclopedia, but take my word when I say  that there are major rifts in beliefs and this sadly, has led to violence historically. Aside from recent events, Bahrain remains a relatively safe place to travel and I felt totally comfortable there while drinking expensive coffee and over priced Heineken.

 Admittedly, my trip to Bahrain was more of a getaway from KSA more than anything. While it is a beautiful country, I simply enjoyed the multi-ethnic feeling of the place while eating to good to be true Thai food (Pad Thai and Pad Sew). On to of this, bar hopping for a couple of nights was fun and having some good westerners to chat to is guaranteed to be a good time. While my time eating and drinking didn't result in anything crazy, thankfully, Bahrain was a great stress reliever and brought to life a sense of interest in Saudi again.

 


 During my stay in Bahrain, which is not a cheap place to stay I might add, I couchsurfed on a local expat's couch for two days which equals me not spending copious amounts of money for a hotel. Couchsurfing is an organization that connects travelers with places to stay in places all over the world. Wonderful hosts open their homes and let travelers stay with them for a specified amount of time. I did this all the time in Korea and I have found that it opens many doors and connects many people from all walks of life.

 Anyways, my host and I decided to go to the beach one afternoon which was on the northwestern edge of Bahrain outside of Manama. The Gulf was gorgeous and the air from the sea spectacular. This beach that we went to, which was located in the village of Budaiya, also housed one of the king's castles which is reminiscent of Windsor castle in the U.K. It was a great drive and one of the highlights of my two day trip.

                                           Budaiya Beach, Bahrain
                                           King Fahd Causeway linking KSA with Bahrain via the Gulf
                                           King's castle
                                           Budaiya Beach

 Overall, my Bahrain experience was one of relaxation and cultural re-connection that I don't get here in KSA. In a sense, I felt more of the Middle East in Bahrain than in Saudi, which is an odd thing to say since here it is more restrictive. KSA is kind of like an exclusive club, one few people desire to join, but if you do, there are certain rewards that you only get here. These rewards of course, are cultural interactions with people from a very conservative background that comes from being raised in one of the world's strictest Islamic states. Yet, the hospitality shown by some Saudi's can also be extraordinary. Like Bahrain, even Saudi has it's own cultural feel, even if it's difficult to find most times. I'm glad to be experiencing both as the year quickly comes to a close.

 Life continues in the Kingdom.

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Update 4 - Sand Boarding, Souq, and Vacation!

  Greetings,

 It's been a while since I last posted, so I suppose I'm due for an update. Over the past couple of weeks life in Saudi has been pretty much routine, save a couple of excursions which I will detail below. It is now vacation and I have chosen to stay inside the Kingdom to save money. On November 6th-8th, I will be going to the Kingdom of Bahrain for some long over due relaxation that includes a couple of beers, friends, and new sites in another country.

 Last week, my friend Ali took me and my friend, Trina, to the national park near Al-Ahsa to to sand boarding behind his SUV. This consisted of connecting a sled to the back of his SUV and yours truly sitting on it while going over hills of sand, bushes, and other things. It was a great time. My friend Ammar, Ali's friend, also let Trina drive his SUV for a bit, which is strictly forbidden in the Kingdom. During this time, I also got some good shots of the desert, and one shot of Trina that I particularly like. Sadly, I did not take photos of me or anyone riding the board as I couldn't be bothered to do it.

                                           Trina
                                           Sarah

                                           Ammar and Chris

 Afterwards, we all went back to Ali's family 'bachelor pad', as he calls it, to eat and smoke some 'shisha' or flavored tobacco. After a few hits off of the hookah bong and with a great feeling roaring through my head, we got up and went back to the compound. Overall, it was a great day and another entertaining evening thanks to Ali.






 Yesterday, I took a trip down to Al-Ahsa's newest 'souq' or market, to check it out during the time. Since Saudi is a night culture, most of the shops were closed and there wasn't really anything to see other than the architecture and people doing their own thing. This souq used to be one of KSA's best until it was burnt down in 2001 in a tragic fire. It has since been rebuilt and shops are slowly coming back. I hope to see it in full swing by the time I leave Al-Ahsa in X date. Tonight, I am returning to the site to see what shops there are, and to meet my friend Matt who is living at the Hofuf Hotel while new apartments are being built on the complex.

                                                     Downtown mosque
                                                     Market









 Now, I'm on vacation and am having a couple of relaxing days at the compound. I've been catching up on sleep, swimming, and grilling out. I'm also planning my trip for January, which ought to be nice. Now it's time to go start my lamb curry.

 Adios,

 - Jesse

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Update 3 - Poll Hall, Shisha Joint, and Work

  This last week some coworkers and myself discovered a place that has pool tables and a really nice indoor cafe. It's a ten minute walk from the compound and it just opened up a couple of weeks ago. Prices are nice and they make one mean espresso, for six riyals! It's a cool get away to go and grade papers and just relax while watching Twilight or soccer games. lol

 Just five minutes up the road is a cool shisha (flavored tobacco) place that is about as close as you're going to get to experiencing Saudi culture from where I stand. I'm no smoker, but the hookah is an interesting device that filters the tobacco through water and into the pipe. I've done it a couple of times, and have no interest of making a habit of it. I've tried double apple and it tends to be the sweetest, from what I hear. It's an odd scene seeing dozens of Saudi men yelling at the workers for more coal on their hookah to burn away the tobacco. 

 Work is going well and my class is progressing a long nicely. Life this week is pretty normal and nothing major to discuss. There is a visit this Thursday to a date farm in the morning, I look forward to tasting some good dates and to taking some nice photos to post. 

 Just a quick post before bed. It's time to sleep and get ready for another day in the Kingdom. 

 -  Jesse

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Flea Market, Apartment Decorating, etc....

  Hello one and all.

 Life continues here in KSA and things are finally in normal mode. Work is pretty much routine by now and my day-to-day life is pretty much what you'd expect it to be: work, eat, sleep, and the occassional cultural experience.

 This weekend (my Thursday and Friday), I went to a local flea market with a few teachers from the compound. The market consisted of mostly farmers selling their wide variety of fruits and vegetables. The big thing over here for fall is the variety of apples that are being imported from the US and Egypt. According to my friend, Chris B., a crate of apples was selling for 20 riyals (about 5 USD). I plan on going back to it to buy some vegetebles in bulk (lettuce, tomatoes, etc...)

 While at the market, I went to the butchers section that was there. To my bewilderment, there was before me many camel and cow heads at the various butcher shop stalls. One of the butchers encouraged us to hold one the heads and take a picture. While my stomach was twirling itself in knots, I subjected myself to an everday occurence to them and truly got to know where my meat comes from. The picture below, while gruesome, was quite an experience and a positive one at that.


  After I was done holding decapitated camel heads and the like, I went over to the old women who were selling some handmade baskets and eating mats made out of dried palm branches. I decided that I wanted to buy a big four foot eating mat to hang on a big white wall in my place. My apartment, while nice and big, really lacks decor and does not feel like home. So, I bought this lovely piece (see picture below) for 45 riyals (13 USD) and hung it up. It makes all the difference to the place and I absolutely love looking at the dark red/green pattern in the middle.




  In other news, I'm still trying to plan something for the eid break that I have in November. Ten days off and I'm not sure what to do, if anything, or where to go. There is talk about a trip to Mada'in Saleh, the sister city of Petra, in Jordan. That would be great to see, but it's a tad pricy. Time will tell. 'Inshallah'

 Back to work.....

 - Jesse

Monday, October 3, 2011

Update 2

   Good morning from KSA! The mornings are now lovely without being too hot and just cool enough not to sweat. I go into work at 8:30 this morning and it will be another day of juggling a classroom full of students who speak good English, but who are bored with the listening book. They will accustomize themselves, I hope.

 This last week has been pretty 'normal' as far as things go, or so I think. This week is actually my first full week of work! It's my 'Thursday' here, actually it's Tuesday (see previous posts). Our program has been getting more teachers this week which means less covering by yours truly and my other colleagues! We found out that we start getting overtime this week! Yay for more money! I've worked four hours overtime on top of my normal classes, so I'm getting excited for October's paycheck which will be divied out in November. My first pay day is tomorrow!!!! It's only two-thirds of a check since the contract started on the tenth.

 My friend Dan, from Oz, and I had a great Indian dinner the other night near the compound where we live. It cost us 7.5 Riyals (2.15 USD). It consisted of beef, two curries, Pepsi, and some lovely flat bread. Afterwards, we decided to check out the neighborhood where we live, the backstreets of it anyway. This little treck turned into a three hour 'how to get back home' expedition as we got lost in the backstreets of Al-Mubarraz, the 'technical' city where I live next to Al-Hofuf. No worries, we took it like men and did what anyone else would have done: look to the sky for heavenly lights! hehehe.... The Al Othaim Mall where we live puts hugs spot lights in the air to attract attention and so we were following those in circles for about two hours..... just to find out the one we were following was the Al-Ahsa Intercontinental Hotel, Hofuf's premier luxury 5 star hotel! We were still a ways from home once we gauged our mental GPS's.

 Along the way, we stopped into an amazing backery that had a huge number of candies and types of 'beklava'. We chose to buy 1.2 pounds worth (1/2 kilo) for 30 Riyals (7 USD). Further down the way, we passed a rug shop. The first rug shop I've seen in KSA..... so, I bought a rug! It cost me 300 Riyals (77 USD) and is now on my living room floor adding positive vibes the bareness of my apartment, which is very spatious. I carried this thing for about a mile home and smiled as I opened the door to my airconditioned flat. After a rest, Dan and I opened the beklava and went home on the tray of goodies that we carried and did not open until we were back.

 My vacation in November keeps evolving. I'm not really sure where I'm going and keep changing my mind as to whether or not I want to stay in KSA or head to a near by place. Either way, this vacation will be small compared to the big one in January. I have to decide soon as my first break is less than four weeks away now. I'll have to see how far the money goes and how much to send home, etc..... For the first time.... well, ever, I have the time and the money (sort of) to go places. Now, it's about putting priorities in order. But what's life without a little fun?! :-) Afterall, I've already taken the plunge inside the Kingdom, that certainly deserves two or three trips per year somewhere..... hehehe...

 All's well inside the Kingdom.

 - Jesse

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Saudi Update 1

   Hello everyone,

 I hope this post finds you all well! It is Thursday and that means it's my weekend. Here in the Arabic world, the weekend falls on Thursday and Friday.

 All is going well here in the Kingdom. The job is still a tad hectic, but much better than last week. Hopefully this next week my class will recieve their books and I'll be able to start properly teaching them. Pay day is next week, as well! I'll be getting two-thirds of a pay check since our contract started on the tenth. We get paid from the first through the end of the month.

 My first vacation in November is fastly approaching, and I am conjuring up some plans which I will reveal soon. I'm trying to strike a fine balance between travel and not spending a lot of money. I'm semi confident that I can achieve this reality.

 I have no plans this weekend due to an off and on occurence of Montezuma's revenge over this past week. Yesterday night it hit me pretty hard and is continuing today. I went to the pharmacy for some pills and I think they're working... time will tell. Let's just say there will be no more school lunches for me. I think that's the cause, but who knows.

 Life continues in the Kingdom.

 - Jesse

Monday, September 26, 2011

Out and about with Pablo and Ali

     The other day while sitting at home, I recieved a call from my friend, Pablo, who just arrived in KSA from Korea, to see if I was interested in going out with his (now 'our') friend Ali, from the city of Dammam. Being a bit bored and not knowing what I was getting into, I said sure. What I thought was going to be just a quick tour of Al-Hofuf, turned into an afternoon of pure fun and hilarious company!

    Pablo and Ali met me in front of Starbucks at the Al Othaim mall, near where I live around 2:45 pm. There, I hopped into Ali's car and quickly introduced myself. After leaving the mall, we decided to go checkout the Al-Ahsa caves that were about a half hour drive away from the city. During that ride, Ali explained to me how he lived in New Orleans for three years studying there for university. Like millions of people in that region, Ali was there during Hurricane Katrina. Due to this disaster, he needed a new host family to house him during the remainder of his sojourn in the US. He said that he felt so grateful to the people who helped him that he wanted to help others in return, without reciveing anything back. In short, he joined an organization that Pablo and me are part of, Couch Surfing (http://www.couchsurfing.org/). This is an organization that helps people find FREE places to stay while travelling. Not only that, but it connects you with local people in any given area and lets you stay at their place. I did this all over Korea and it was without a doubt one of the best moves I made while there.




 Anyways, Ali took Pablo and me to the caves, which are sort of famous around this part of the Kingdom. He explained how they are stay cool during the summer and warm during the winter. Driving up to the caves, you pass many marvelous rock formations which make up a rugged terrain of sandstone and date palms. Where we parked, we even saw a man climbing one of the date palms to harvest the dates that were up there. Pablo coined the phrase "he's dating!".... not with a girl, but a 'date'! :-) Go Pabs....



 Following this, we walked down into the rock formation and entered the caves, which were really cool, in both meanings, and they somewhat reminded me of the caves in Donghae, Korea that I visited. Uljin, where I taught in Korea, also had some good caves. The caves were entirely made of sandstone were quite narrow and had tall cathedral-like ceilings.








 The caves, as wonderful as they were, weren't the best part of the trip for me. After we left the caves, we went to a family house that has been making handmade pottery for over one hundred year. This place was amazing to see, not just because it was visually stunning, but because I saw the guy use the circular device that spins the clay to make a traditional piggy bank (see video below). In the center of the 'house' there were date palms and handmade baskets and other crafts made out of palm leaves. I bought a small basket and a traditional Saudi picnic mat that they use to eat on the ground. I bought both of these things for 35 Riyals (9 USD). The man even gave Pablo and me a smaller piggy bank jar that he made; they're heavy things, too.





 In the above photo, the circular mat in the upper left corner is the one I bought! I love it and have plans to hang it on a wall in my apartment. It's more for decoration than for actual use. Visiting this place was a unique insight into how traditional handcafts were made centuries ago and what the quality that was and is produced to this day.


 After a great experience at the pottery factory, we headed to a near by national park that is close to the city. Ali told us that the park consisted of lots of trees that were planted to help keep back to ever changing sand dunes. Apparently, the sand dunes were creeping up on the houses years back and now they are at the edge of the park where the trees begin. The park is quite nice and green and clean! It appears to be a popular gathering place for families and friends to hangout at. Ali said that he sometimes takes his SUV and races up the sand dunes that are there, something he promised we would all do! *grins*

 In the park, we bought some water, ice cream, and garbanzo beans with hot sauce and cumin! We headed out to see the dunes, but the gate at the edge of the desert was inaccessible. So, we drove to another part of the desert and laid down a blanket and ate the garbanzos.... let's just say I know have two cans of garbanzo beans in my apartment with cumin on the standby for dinner! As usual, we were accompanied by a beautiful sunset that I had to take a picture of.








 Now for the part that was the most surprising for me. So what do you do in Saudi Arabia after walking in caves, watching pottery be made, and a nice late afternoon in the desert? You go to a hookah bar and smoke sheesha of course!!! That's right, I've taken up smoking! Why not? Sheesha, for those of you who aren't aware, is flavored tobacco that is burned and filtered through water that you smoke through a pipe. Being that I'm in Saudi Arabia and that sheesha is much healthier than cigarettes, I gave in and enjoyed a lovely hookah for about an hour, coughing the whole way! Ali put it this way: not smoking sheesha in Saudi Arabia is like not visiting the pyramids when you're in Egypt. So, I was culturally forced to comply. :-) Apparently, I did well for a first timer, and no, I don't plan on making it a habit to visit the hookah bars; although, they do have nice tea. :-)







 After that, I went home and enjoyed a quiet evening in front of the TV.

Life continues in the Kingdom.....