Camel Market

Camel Market

Friday, January 27, 2012

My Journey to Cambodia, Kingdom of Wonder

 Cambodia. The name conjures up memories of massacres from the Khmer Rouge in the 1970's, mass poverty, land mines, and the occasional visit of Angelina Jolie to do some volunteering. It's a place that I came to wonder about when I arrived in Korea to teach English as a foreign language. At that time, there was a commercial on CNN International picturing the mysterious Angkor Wat and a few other things to see all accompanied by a nice theme that made me feel 'awww cool!' inside. Since then, I've done my research on the place, watched to Globe Trekker series about it, and decided that this was just one of those places that I just had to go to. I mean, who goes to Cambodia? A lot of people, actually. It's becoming quite the tourist destination, but nothing like Thailand, China, or Japan. It's a very unique place to visit and get to know.

  Moving forward to 2012, I found myself flying into Bangkok, Thailand with immediate plans to bus all the way to the Thai/Cambodia border, which I did, after a crazy journey to the bus terminal. From the airport I took the Skytrain and subway to Mochit Station and from there a taxi to the bus terminal. After thirty minutes of gridlocked traffic, I paid the taxi guy and got my bag and started walking. A minute down the road, a motorbike stops and asks me where I'm going. After saying the bus station, he said he'd take me there for fifty baht (1.66 USD). With my travelers backpack strapped tightly to my back, I agreed and found myself at the bus station in ten minutes rather than waiting for another hour as the taxi driver had told me. It was a sketchy move, but I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

 From the bus terminal, I boarded a bus and found myself sitting with the only other foreigners there. They were from Italy and a were a cordial couple travelling on to Siem Reap, Cambodia like me. It didn't take too long to put 2 and 2 together before I asked if they would like to travel together from the border. They agreed and before I knew it, I was speaking Spanish and trying to understand Italiano with Valentina and Fabio.

 The bus ride to Aranya Prathet was a grueling five hour journey on Thai roads and various stops in small towns. Numerous people got on and off the bus and we didn't know exactly where our destination was. Once it was made clear to us that we had arrived, it was late and the border was closed, meaning that we had to spend the night in this little Thai town that used to be known as a refugee city during the Khmer Rought regime . It was here that I experienced my first Tuk Tuk ride, a three wheeled motor cart contraption that acts as a taxi. They run on diesel and are obnoxiously loud.

 The next morning, my new friend and I Tuk Tuked it (yes, I made a new verb) to the border and walked across the land bridge to Poipet, Cambodia. I was ecstatic! The feeling of being in a distant foreign land hit me as I saw the droves of Cambodians coming from the Thai side accompanied with the smell of incense from the local temples. As you walk into Cambodia, you walk underneath a replica of Angkor Wat, the megalithic monument that I was to visit on my journey.

 Prior to coming, I've read several scary stories about crossing this border. There are many pick pockets and dodgy people that try to hassle you out of a few dollars. It's also known that if you cross in the afternoon, it will take you hours due to the crowds of people trying to cross as well as the slow pace of work that goes on in this part of the world. However, since I crossed in the morning when it opened, I was through in no time and only had to wait for my Italian friends to get there visa. I did my eVisa online prior.

 Once through, we boarded a free shuttle bus to the bus terminal and hired a private Toyota Camry taxi to take us to Siem Reap. The total cost between us was 48 USD, or about 16 dollars per person. The bus would have taken longer and I was tuckered out and just wanted to arrive. Along the way, we passed through very flat land that was once war torn. We drove by rice fields, oxen, and villages so poor it made you rethink why you had actually come to a place like this. Alas, this is all part of travelling, to get to know a place regardless of whether or not it's pleasant. I often find myself shaking my head when people go and stay at fancy resorts in other countries, many of whom stay there and don't venture out of their bubble that they live in at the Ritz Carlton or the Hilton. They're nice places, but venture out and see the real place you came to visit. Okay, enough ranting.

 While on the path to Siem Reap, our driver made one pit stop, not knowing why, we were watching him as he went over to a fence and did his business there. No public toilets in Cambodia, apparently. Welcome to life in the third world! It was just another reminder of where I had come and the beginning of an eyeopening adventure that I had laid for myself.

 After two hours of sightseeing pleasure, we eventually entered the city limits of Siem Reap, Cambodia. Not knowing where the bus station was, the taxi driver stopped at a Tuk Tuk place to try and get us to rent one of them (typical as they get a commission for business). We refused and he dropped us off in the middle of town. I bid farewell to my companions and threw my bag over my shoulder.

 I was in Cambodia. I had arrived. 

Winter Vacation Blogs

 Many people spend their entire lives dreaming about things that they wish they can or would do. For most people, these dreams remain that, dreams. Something that seems so great, yet unattainable for a myriad of reasons. There always seems to be something standing in the way of fulfilling whatever it is that is at the inner core of curiosity. For me, I feel quite privileged to have been able to do so much at the young age of 27. Looking back over the past decade, I've accomplished some things that I've wanted to do (graduate college, get a job) and many things that weren't even on my radar (going to Korea, Saudi Arabia, graduating from grad. school). All of these encompass steps in my life that have led me here today on this moderately comfortable bed in KSA.

 I find it impossible to believe that there is a person alive who doesn't have a list of places that they want to see before they day. This could be a list of your favorite US cities, or an arms-length recipe of countries that you've spent years developing just to find out that you have to reorder some of them because you've discovered an even better place that may beat out number thirty. 

For me, travel is something that I've always pondered and fascinated over since my early teens. I grew up watching the Travel Channel and would always find watching show about animals in Africa with my grandmother on a Friday night to be quite delightful, always musing over how nice it would be to see such places. For myself, this last trip to Southeast Asia was a dream come true, not only because I can mark two countries off of my proverbial list of places; but rather because of all the wonderful people I met a long the way and the kindness that shown two me from two very different cultures. These next series of posts will try to highlight the positives and negatives of my adventures to this strange land and to point out the reality that I see in this world from my point of view and context. 

 Let's begin.....

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Thailand Winter Vacation 2012!!!!!!!!

   Hello everyone!

 It's been a while since my last post. All things are well here in KSA and I am happy to report that I am still breathing. As most of you know, I am going to Thailand for my winter vacation this year. I leave in one week and I am extremely excited about my trip.

 Thailand is one of those countries that you visit over and over again. This is what I am told and feel is what I will come to believe in the near future. Aside from the historical aspects of it, Thailand has an immense amount of beauty and culture to offer the world. From its food, picture perfect beaches, and historical architecture, Thailand is truly one of the world's original gems.

 My vacation, which will be 17 days, paid I might add ;-), will entail a little bit of culture, a few islands, and tons of beaches. My Southeast Asia extravaganza begins on January 9th when I will fly from Bahrain straight to Bangkok. Immediately I will book it to the Thai/Cambodia border and stay in the town of Aranya Prathet. Why go here you might be asking yourself? Because this is the route to one of history's most ancient civilizations, the Khmer Empire city of Angkor Wat. This city, known for its monolithic temples, architecture, and beauty, is the first stop on my destination which is in neighboring Cambodia. Here, I will stay in the town of Siem Reap from January 10th-12th. During this time I will hire a tuk tuk (motorbike cab) and will be touring an impossible amount of temples, jungles, and unfortunately, going around tourists. This is a place I have wanted to go since living in Korea and I cannot wait to check this world wonder off my list.

 From there, I will speed back to Bangkok and take an overnight train (14 hours) to the town of Trang, which is the gateway to the mystical Trang Islands. Thankfully, these islands remain pretty remote due to the face that some are part of a nature reserve and since they're kind of off the beaten path. From Trang, I will take a tuk tuk to a boat pier and hire a longboat (an 8m long boat with an engine) that will take me to the various islands that I will stay at.

 The first island is one of the least visited and most remote. The island of Ko Libong is part of a national marine wildlife refuge that is home to some of the world's few remaining dugongs. This porpoise-like creature survives around the island's mangroves, which I will tour in a kayak on my two day stay. This island is not so much known for it's beaches, but how can I possibly pass up a beach bungalow for 12 USD per night?!?!?!?!

 The next step will be to leave Ko Libong for the island of Ko Kradan or Ko Mook (haven't decided) and do  have two days on a more pristine island full of palm trees, white sand beaches, and yes, tourists... (it's Thailand, not Cambodia). Here, i'll truly relax and try to forget about time, Facebook, the internet, news, economy, and KSA.... It will be a truly zen-like experience.

 After four - five marvelous day in these karst islands, I will take another longboat to the big island of Ko Lanta which is much more touristy and larger. It makes a spot on my itinerary as it has a host of excellent beaches, swank towns, and, you guessed it, good beach bungalows! For two days I will rent a motorbike and tour the island and the sites that it has to offer. Surely, I will be a typical tourist and party hardy and kick back  without a worry in the world.

 After nearly a week of fun in the sun, I will bus it back to Bangkok from the town of Krabi and meet my friend Kyle on the 21st of January. From here on out I have no idea what we will do. I have until the 26th to let loose and do whatever presents itself as interesting, adventurous, and downright crazy.

 Sadly, on the 26th I return to Bahrain, where I will spend the day drowning my sorrows at Hunter's Lounge at the Ad Hari hotel in Manama. Having a 7 USD Heinekin draft will feel bittersweet the night before I head back to what has become known as the Kingdom.

 Alas at this time, a new countdown will commence until the next vacation appears eight weeks later during the last week of March.

 Don't expect to hear from me for about three weeks in January. This is my itinerary and this is about as 'official' of a warning of where I"m going anyone will get. It'll probably change, but that's just like me. One year I'm in Minnesota attending grad school and the next day I'm in Saudi Arabia in the largest oasis in the world. Next week it'll be Thailand and Cambodia. Bring it!

 - Jesse

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Update 7: Off to Bahrain, again.

 ~Salam!

 It's been a while so here's what I'm up to. I'm off to Bahrain for another weekend of fun fun fun! Going to explore the souq (market), maybe Adliya (neighborhood where I stayed last time), and hit a couple ok... a few bars to see what the local pubs have to offer. Maybe I'll return to JJ's for Happy Hour. Nothing fancy, but it'll be a great weekend to unwind from whining students and reckless classrooms since midterms have finished and now that the light at the end of the tunnel can be seen by all. 

 33 days until Thailand!!! That is the countdown playing in my head like a broken record. I still have no plans on what I will be doing. I kind of like it that way. Maybe I'll just go with the flow and see where my two feet take me, be it sun dropped tropical beaches or misty mountains. 

 Work is kind of hectic with students becoming restless and people in general are just ready for another vacation. It's hard to explain, but that first vacation really spoiled a lot of us, not me, of course. Seventeen days of mystery await in Southeast Asia and the anticipation until then is eating away at me. Sometimes I find myself pondering what it'll be like in the middle of class or test day when students are quiet, for a change, and I have time to gaze into my mind. 

 Anyways, time for bed.

 Life continues in the Kingdom. 

Monday, November 21, 2011

Update 6: General stuff :-)

  Good morning from lovely Al-Ahsa, Saudi Arabia!

 The sun is now shining after a brief episode of rain. I saw and felt rain drops this morning. It was a good feeling. This week has been a pretty good one, I'm busy working overtime at the Shabaka Training school twice per week, my classes have been unusually smooth, and this weekend should be a nice, relaxing time. On a different note, I'm taking a self-imposed break from the coffee bandwagon and am boarding the lovely boat of Green Tea for a couple of weeks, just to change things up. So far I'm liking it.

 In two weeks I will be going to the Kingdom of Bahrain, again. I'm going to try and find a host through Couchsurfing so I don't pay for a hotel and can actually meet some cool people again. My former hosts have sadly left for better things in India and back home in the states. However, I am looking forward to a weekend of sight seeing, good Thai food, and a couple of over priced Heinekens.

 The week after that, I may be going to Khobar and Dammam for the day to do some sight seeing in those cities. There's a compound trip there and I'm always up for getting away from the paradise that is Al-Ahsa, lol. It should be good times and seeing the Arabian Gulf again is good change of scenery. Khobar also has a nice Jarir bookstore which is the premier English book dealer in Saudi. I can easily spend an hour in there just browsing around their Lonely Planet travel guides.

 Only 48 days until I leave for Thailand and Cambodia. I'm getting excited, but it still feels a ways away. This weekend I am going to look for the LP travel guides for those two countries and do up my research for my vacation. I can't wait to go and I hope to avoid some of the more tourist locations for the first half of my trip. Angor Wat, of course, will be quite touristy as it's THE thing to see in Cambodia. I'm hoping to make it to Northern Thailand. We'll see what I can muster up. Whatever I decide, my itinerary, if you can call it that, will be quite loose and I will have no time table. I like travelling on the go and staying for whatever time I want. It's  the beauty of travel.

 Alright, it's almost time for class and I have to go.

 Life continues in the Kingdom.

 - Jesse

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Update 5: Back to Work and January's Vacation!

   Well, it's day two of 'back to work week' and things are slowly getting readjusted in my head. Eleven days of being lazy in KSA and Bahrain really was nice and totally broke my work circadian rhythm.

   Yesterday's classes were hectic. Most of the students were rowdy and tired... complaining that they didn't want to do the work and the usual gripe and diatribe that they usually muster up as 'Friday' gets closer. During my last hour of teaching yesterday, Rob, third in command here at Shabaka, interrupted my class and asked if I would be interested in doing overtime twice per week teaching at the Shabaka private school that is here in town. Being it was the first day back to work, tired, and maybe a little irritated from a day's worth of whining students, I excitedly said yes! lol... So now, every Saturday and Monday between 4-6 PM I will be teaching a very basic conversation ESL course. And at 100 riyals per hour (about 27 dollars) it all helps towards paying off loans and/or (emphasize on 'or') have a better vacation in January!

 Ahhh vacation, a word long since forgotten in most corners of America. I'm luck to have roughly five weeks paid vacation per year, without having to do the twenty years of work to get it. So, after a long chat with a friend who I met in Korea last night, I decided to book it for Thailand and Cambodia, two distant kingdoms in Southeast Asia that I have been longing to go to for a long time. My friend, Kyle, will meet up with me during the last week of my vacation after he finishes a work camp in SoKo. I have no itinerary yet and probably won't make one, but I will certainly be visiting Angor Wat, Pnomh Penh, Bangkok, and it's guaranteed I will be among the crowds of foreigners on the beaches of Phuket and Ko Samui. Stoked about this whole thing, even if it's two months away.

 Until that time, life continues in the kingdom, where it has gotten considerably cool and windy.

 - Jesse

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Kingdom of Bahrain, Trip 1

  Last week, I climbed onto the compound bus with excitement to leave for the Kingdom of Bahrain, a small tiny island nation just off the coast of Saudi Arabia in the middle of the Arabian Gulf. This two day break from THE kingdom was organized by Don our transportation manager.

 Unaware that this country even existed a few months ago, I first heard of this place from my friend Patrick Crossman who worked here in KSA last year and who helped get me this job. With limited knowledge and more excitement than ever to travel outside of Ah-Ahsa, where I currently reside, I got aboard the bus and started reading my Lonely Planet travel guide for the hundredth time to review all of the places that I wanted to see: Manama souq, central Manama, etc..


 Bahrain, as it turns out, has a history going back more than five thousand years, being a former Empire, British protectorate, and critical trading post for the Portuguese. The island has a fascinating history and is littered with old forts, ruins of ancient civilizations, and great Arab architecture ranging from decorative mosques to Manama's modern day buildings.

                                                     Mosque in Manama souq area
                                                     Bahrain World Trade Center, side view
                                                     Some random skyscraper

  Bahrain also happens to be a popular tourist destination for expats in KSA and Saudis alike. It is considerably more liberal than KSA as it allows women to drive and vote. Furthermore, freedom of religion is a right and all nationalities were declared 'equal' by the king in the early 90's. All of these things have helped create a modern Bahrain that is not only more tolerant of diversity, but also makes it much more multicultural and interesting than anything that I have experienced in Saudi to date.

                                                     Bahraini flag in all its glory

 Being in Bahrain certainly has its appeal for me as a Westerner, the multicultural ambiance in the air is great as you walk by a Thai restaurant while there's an Indian barber next door who happens to be cutting the hair of somebody from Europe. However, as of recent, Bahrain has experienced it's own calamity with what has come to be known as the 'Arab Spring'.

 A few months ago massive violent protests took place in central Manama, the capital governorate, and the Saudi military was called in to intervene. The results were bad and to this day mild, small protests continue with tear gas and other maneuvers being deployed to suppress them. You see, Bahrain is seventy percent Shia muslim while the other thirty percent, including the ruling royal family, is Sunni. I'm not going to describe the differences between the two as I have no interest in writing an encyclopedia, but take my word when I say  that there are major rifts in beliefs and this sadly, has led to violence historically. Aside from recent events, Bahrain remains a relatively safe place to travel and I felt totally comfortable there while drinking expensive coffee and over priced Heineken.

 Admittedly, my trip to Bahrain was more of a getaway from KSA more than anything. While it is a beautiful country, I simply enjoyed the multi-ethnic feeling of the place while eating to good to be true Thai food (Pad Thai and Pad Sew). On to of this, bar hopping for a couple of nights was fun and having some good westerners to chat to is guaranteed to be a good time. While my time eating and drinking didn't result in anything crazy, thankfully, Bahrain was a great stress reliever and brought to life a sense of interest in Saudi again.

 


 During my stay in Bahrain, which is not a cheap place to stay I might add, I couchsurfed on a local expat's couch for two days which equals me not spending copious amounts of money for a hotel. Couchsurfing is an organization that connects travelers with places to stay in places all over the world. Wonderful hosts open their homes and let travelers stay with them for a specified amount of time. I did this all the time in Korea and I have found that it opens many doors and connects many people from all walks of life.

 Anyways, my host and I decided to go to the beach one afternoon which was on the northwestern edge of Bahrain outside of Manama. The Gulf was gorgeous and the air from the sea spectacular. This beach that we went to, which was located in the village of Budaiya, also housed one of the king's castles which is reminiscent of Windsor castle in the U.K. It was a great drive and one of the highlights of my two day trip.

                                           Budaiya Beach, Bahrain
                                           King Fahd Causeway linking KSA with Bahrain via the Gulf
                                           King's castle
                                           Budaiya Beach

 Overall, my Bahrain experience was one of relaxation and cultural re-connection that I don't get here in KSA. In a sense, I felt more of the Middle East in Bahrain than in Saudi, which is an odd thing to say since here it is more restrictive. KSA is kind of like an exclusive club, one few people desire to join, but if you do, there are certain rewards that you only get here. These rewards of course, are cultural interactions with people from a very conservative background that comes from being raised in one of the world's strictest Islamic states. Yet, the hospitality shown by some Saudi's can also be extraordinary. Like Bahrain, even Saudi has it's own cultural feel, even if it's difficult to find most times. I'm glad to be experiencing both as the year quickly comes to a close.

 Life continues in the Kingdom.